Experiencing the newly renovated La Folie de Vougeot is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
The ‘White Fox’ – the pseudonym for a wealthy Canadian investor – is the man responsible for the glorious renovation of what was once an eye-sore in the heart of the Clos de Vougeot, the famed Grand Cru vineyard in the Côte de Nuits.
Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy
Now in his mid-60s, very tall, with a flop of white hair and a white goatee, it was the White Fox who invited me to stay at the newly restored La Folie de Vougeot. The White Fox insisted not to mention his true name under any circumstances. Having investigated this intrigue further, it appears his family members “think” he was formerly a spy, whereas his close friends “definitely know” he was a spy. Whether or not this lies at the heart of his reticence for giving his real name, I can certainly attest to the fact that the White Fox is a most interesting, generous and warm-hearted man, as well as a formidable wine connoisseur with a penchant for older vintages of Burgundy.
The Wife & The Mistress
Perhaps it is fitting, given the White Fox’s uncertain background, that the history surrounding La Folie de Vougeot is also a little murky. Built in 1892, as an homage to Art Nouveau by a successful Dijon wine negociant to entertain his friends, he was caught red-handed in bed with his mistress at La Folie, leading to a messy divorce. The wife managed to extract La Folie in the divorce settlement, but in 1905, the property was left empty to rot for over 100 years. Given La Folie is located right in the heart of one of the most famous Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy, close to the neighboring Château du Clos Vougeot, it was a source of much contention and consternation for the whole Burgundy community. This was the project the White Fox decided to try his hand at: the grand restoration of La Folie de Vougeot.
The Renovation
By the 21st Century, La Folie was jointly owned by Maison Joseph Drouhin, Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre and Domaine de Montille. The White Fox formed a new company, La Folie Restoration, to take partial ownership of the property, arranging for the purchase of Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre’s stake. Then began the design and permitting stage of the project, which required consent from the town of Vougeot, the Château du Clos Vougeot, Batiments de France and Burgundy’s vineyard association. Key to the approved works was to ensure that the restoration would not interfere with work in the vineyards, given the property is surrounded by vines. This meant all ten phases of construction needed to be carried out over short periods of downtime in the vineyards. The project took 2.5 years to complete from start to finish for a property with a mere 110 square metres of interior space on four levels, of which the basement is designed as a wine cellar and the top floor is a viewing tower. The one magnificent bedroom and bathroom is 40 square metres, similar in size to the stunning dining room and kitchen on the ground level.
Unparalleled Quality
Accessed from its own entrance into the Clos de Vougeot along a driveway, La Folie de Vougeot has been renovated to the highest quality standard. The White Fox told me they blew the budget many times, as he was dedicated to ensuring that the end product was unsurpassed. No doubt part of the reason for the inflated budget – other than the extensive costs of restoring the many Art Nouveau wood and metal decorative pieces that exist all over the property – was the installation of a secret underground wine cellar, accessed by a floor rising up electronically under the kitchen. The wine cellar features 750 bottles of Clos de Vougeot, the largest historic collection in Burgundy, including vintages ranging from 1918 (in magnum) to current day, from virtually every producer who has made Clos de Vougeot in the last hundred years, along with special selections from the historic cellars of Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine de Montille.
A Very Special Place
Experiencing La Folie de Vougeot for the first time, you cannot help but realise you are in a very special place. The White Fox has created the ultimate luxury experience, with great attention to detail, in an authentic 1890s environment. Waking up on an enormous bed in one of the most historic vineyards in the world, lounging in your period bath while viewing the vines literally a few feet away, and taking in the breathtaking and highest view in Burgundy from the top of the La Folie tower, is truly sensational.
Lovingly Pampered
I loved and appreciated the double sinks in the bathroom – an absolute requirement for my wife wherever we stay! – the great water pressure in the shower, the complimentary range of Hèrmes soaps and bathroom accessories, the multitude of power plug sockets in the bedroom and house, iPads located wherever you look, and top quality Devialet speakers. Provided you come with a toothbrush and a change of clothing, everything else is taken care of. And, then there are the arrival gifts: half-bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée, Le Labo Men’s Travel Kit, and a bottle of Hèrmes lady’s perfume, valued at €450.
Taking a Bath
On the wall of the bedroom is an original Sara Bernhardt pastelle of Cleopatra from 1890, coupled with an array of furnishings dating from the same period, including some very rare Lalique pieces, antique crystal and hand-carved standing lamps, as well as the original hand-painted ceiling canvas from 1890 which has been lovingly restored. At the insistence of the White Fox – who is not a man you say ‘no’ to – I took a bath on a warm, still sunny early evening, while sipping Krug and overlooking the vineyards with not a single human in view – simply idyllic.
Dinner with Burgundy Royalty
The best was yet to come. Spy or no spy, the White Fox had laid on a Michelin-starred dinner in the impressive dining room filled with celebrated vignerons who were delighted to be invited and experience La Folie for the first time themselves. From Domaine Lefaive, Brice de la Morandière and his wife; Cecile Tremblay from Domaine Cecile Tremblay; Anne Gros from Domaine Anne Gros; Virginie Taupenot from Domaine Taupenot Merme; and Vincent Dureuil-Janthial from Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial. Naturally, the White Fox sat at the head of the table, overseeing the wine pouring and ensuring everything was just so.
Food & Wines Fit For A King
Chef Keishi Sugimura of Michelin-star Le Benaton prepared a sensational culinary multi-course feast paired perfectly with Dom Pérignon P2 2004, Krug Grande Cuvée 167eme, Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 in magnum, Domaine de la Vougeraie Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 2009, Domaine Comte Liger-Belair Clos Vougeot 2016, Domaine Henri Boillot Clos de Vougeot 2009, Domaine Jean Grivot 1989, Domaine François Gros Clos de Vougeot 1968, Clos Vougeot 1949 (from a long-gone negociant called Couleuse Stadelhoffer), Château d’Yquem 1996 and Taylor’s Port Golden Age 50 year old Tawny.
Rates Less Than Expected
As you might imagine, access to La Folie de Vougeot is not well advertised. It’s deliberately low-key and aims to target those ‘in the know’, particularly among Burgundy aficionados through the Chevalier de Tastevin. Rates for a night’s stay for 2 guests vary between €1,750 in high season and €1,250 in low season. (Interestingly, for those attending Les Trois Glorieuses in the third week of November, this is deemed low season!) For those wishing to combine their stay with a Michelin-star chef catered dinner for up to 12 guests, rates are €2,750 in high season and €1,850 in low season. If you prefer an extensive wine tasting for up to 18 guests instead of a Michelin-star chef catered dinner, rates are €2,850 in high season and €2,250 in low season. All rates include an overnight stay and breakfast, which I can attest was first class.
For those seeking to explore the wine cellar, the pricing is similar or better than most restaurants in the area. The oldest bottle of Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot from 1969 sells for €2,500 per bottle. La Folie also stores plenty of bottles of Krug and Dom Pérignon, plus Château d’Yquem and old Armagnac, at very fair prices. Indeed, for lovers of a truly unique and unparalleled wine, food and stay extravaganza, I believe the White Fox has underpriced the experience… perhaps deliberately!
To book your stay at La Folie de Vougeot email: concierge@la-folie-vougeot.com referencing ROBB REPORT.
Lewis Chester DipWSET is a London-based wine & rare spirit collector and writer, member of the Académie du Champagne and Chevaliers du Tastevin, co-founder of Liquid Icons and, along with Sasha Lushnikov, the founder of the Golden Vines® Awards. He is also Honorary President and Head of Fundraising at the Gérard Basset Foundation, which funds diversity & inclusivity education programmes globally in the wine, spirits & hospitality sectors. The Golden Vines® 2025 will take place in Miami, USA between 7-9 November 2025, recognising the world’s best fine wine estates as voted by hundreds of fine wine professionals. Please register your interest for tickets on the website: liquidicons.com/work/golden-vines-awards.
