Fusion is thriving, judging by the Swedish-Japanese culinary alchemy taking place in this
Mashing up two or more culinary cultures is nothing new. In fact it goes back to the dawn of human movement and cross-cultural exchange – although it wasn’t until the 80s that Wolfgang Puck’s drawing of Asian influences from Los Angeles neighbourhoods to seep into the ingredients of his Transatlantic fare, and Roy Yamaguchi’s Hawaiian-Japanese culinary alloys exploded onto the scene, that it became a buzzword.
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Naturally there was backlash – the word ‘con-fusion’ quickly became a derogatory riposte to this new synthesis of time-honoured gastronomic traditions that had evolved elegantly in isolation: and the phrase “A camel is a horse made by committee” still springs to mind when one encounters gimmicky approaches typified by Mexican lasagnes, waffle tacos and pad Thai pizzas.
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Gourmands who are desperate to conclude that different national cuisines can be greater than the sum of their parts, though, should head to this sedate, intimate dining venue found above a city centre townhouse. The restaurant’s inspiration, in its own words, “comes from Japan which blends well with the terroir of the north” – and, following the requisite pre-prandial drinks in the cosy separate bar room, a perusal of the menu will give credence to these words.
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Chef Sayan Isaksson – who is already celebrated in his native land for earning Michelin stars at two restaurants located in the same building, Esperanto and Imouto – describes the food vibe, in keeping with the eatery’s atmosphere, as “coming home to someone for dinner”, and it’s a philosophy that finds perhaps its purest expression in the special in-house dashi: a rich, wholesome tasting stock containing kombu, katsuobushi, and mushrooms and used in broths, marinades and sauces to enhance the food’s ‘Umami’, or savouriness.
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Another glorious signifier of how Swedish ingredients and the Japanese culinary arts can sing in perfect harmony is the roe within crust crackers: a dish you’ll remember well beyond that post-prandial cognac is in the final room you need to take in during your visit – one which offers perusal of the restaurant’s gargantuan, thoughtfully curated wine fridge and, on the way to which, you’ll get a glimpse into the magic being worked in the kitchen.
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The approach service in such a place as this – the concept of hygge, thriving in its own native land – needs to be another type of fusion: one which blends attentiveness with informality. It’s a dichotomy carried off with charming ease.
Norrlandsgatan 24, 111 43 Stockholm, Sweden (+46 8 503 389 71/restaurantnour.se)