A flyback chronograph and two time-and-date models combine colored rubber, stainless steel, 18k pink gold and black ceramic.
Audemars Piguet just dropped three stunning new Royal Oaks, making for a delightful late-summer surprise from the Swiss brand.
Audemars Piguet defines its Royal Oak Offshore line as having a “rebellious and daring spirit,” by which it means it is the collection the brand can have some fun with when it comes to mixing colors, materials and sporty tweaks without upsetting purist collectors. Three new Royal Oak models define the formula, with individual color schemes, material-combinations, sizes and strap options. They include two selfwinding time-and-date models and one flyback chronograph. Together they combine colored rubber, stainless steel, 18k pink gold and black ceramic, and add new tones of bronze, ivory and blue to the collection. All three watches contain separate, elite movements and are delivered at price points that remain under €50,000, including a gold model—not as steep as a Royal Oak.
The 37 mm Selfwinding reference embraces a theme emerging among luxury brands: 18k gold ladies’ watches that are classic with a twist, rather than ornamental. It is not defined as a ladies’ watch, but as an option “for smaller wrists,” but it is not hard to image future iterations with diamonds, which would complement the color scheme. The twist here is that the gold bezel is coated with rubber, surely a first in gold watches. The gray rubber is matched by a gray flange and a mosaic-style rubber bracelet that admittedly does add a decorative touch. It can be swapped out for black for more contrast.
The mosaic texture on the rubber is a brand-specific innovation that separates it from other offerings in the segment in a way that the grande tapisserie dial does, treated here in rhodium and ivory tones. It’s equipped with caliber 5900, Audemars Piguet’s ultra-slim automatic movement, a three-hand with date, released in 2022. Only 3.9 mm thick (the case is 12.1 mm thick), it has a 60-hour power reserve.
The second Selfwinding time-only plus date uses a slightly bigger movement, the automatic caliber 4302, and measures 43 mm x 14.4 mm in the case. It also gets the rubber-coated bezel treatment, but the rubber is going over steel rather than gold – the case is also steel. The dial, flange and strap are all blue, an iconic color for Audemars, and it also comes with an additional black rubber strap. The movement has 70-hour power reserve.
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flyback Chronograph, another 43 mm steel option, retains a steel bezel instead of rubber, with crown and push-pieces executed in black ceramic. The flange and subdials are black to match, with a white tachymeter printed on the flange. The smoked bronze Mega Tapisserie dial is Habanos-inspired, according to AP, with darkened edges extending to the lighter center. The brown alligator strap with an Oxford hand-finished patina, is so chic it’s almost flashy. It contains caliber 4401, Audemars Piguet’s integrated flyback chronograph, introduced in the Code 11.59 collection in 2019, and now used in the Royal Oak line. It uses a column wheel with a vertical clutch, and also powers a jumping hour with the flyback chronograph. It has a 70 hour power reserve.
