California’s leading Harlan Family Domain is the third on our wine expert Lewis Chester DipWSET’s list of the World’s Best 12 Fine Wine Estates for good reason.
I recently viewed some of my old tasting notes, including a bottle of 2001 Harlan Estate tasted in October 2007: “Left-Bank Bordeaux aromas with ripe black fruit, powerful but refined mid-palate and an exciting finish – my first ever Harlan!” English wine lovers generally don’t buy heaps of American wines, often having preconceived conceptions that they are all likely to be alcoholic fruit bombs. However, Harlan produces majestic wines that rank among the very best in the world.
In adding a Californian estate to my World’s Best 12 Fine Wine Estates, I debated long and hard between Ridge Vineyards and Harlan Estate. Afterall, Ridge makes one of my favourite wines, Ridge Monte Bello, in a European style that is still underrated and underappreciated by many American collectors. 1,000 fine wine professionals from 120 countries voted Ridge the Golden Vines® Best Fine Wine Producer in the Americas in 2021, 2022 and 2023 – above Harlan that ranked consistently in the top three. But the clincher for me was that the Harlan family also produces two other wines that are close to the level of Harlan Estate: Promontory and BOND. For this reason, the Harlan family – rather than just Harlan Estate – more than justify the ranking.
Bill Harlan had been in the real estate business when, in the early 1980s, he followed through on a lifelong dream to establish a winegrowing estate, modelling the endeavour on the Bordeaux Left-Bank First Growths. In 1984, his vision for creating a “First Growth” of California began with the purchase of a 240-acre tract of land – 33 acres of which are under vine – on east-facing volcanic soils situated on the western side of Oakville in Napa Valley. “My dad wanted to build something that would be in the family for generations, and which could produce wines that might someday be considered among the fine wines of the world. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, a small parcel of Merlot and a very small parcel of Petit Verdot”, Will Harlan, Bill’s son who now runs the estate, told me.
Bill Harlan’s vision became a reality. Producing less than 3,000 cases annually at a release price of $1,700 per bottle, the 2023 Liv-Ex Classification (inspired by the 1855 Bordeaux Classification to determine a hierarchy of the leading global fine wine estates) places Harlan Estate as the only non-French fine wine label in the top ten (10th place). Screaming Eagle, also from Napa Valley, is the next highest-placed Californian wine in 23rd place.
Will Harlan took over the stewardship of the family’s wine holdings in 2020, although his father remains the Chairman and Founder, and the two – along with his sister, Amanda – remain closely united on their long-term vision. “My father and I are aligned one thousand percent on where we want to go and what we feel the potential is, with regards to deciphering the language of the land and translating that into the wine”.
One of their shared beliefs is in evolution, rather than revolution. “We’re coming up to our 40th anniversary next year. Our understanding of the vineyard, the vines and the soils have improved greatly over time. We have dialled back on many of the inputs at Harlan Estate. The vineyard is now almost entirely dry farmed [no irrigation], the harvest date has moved forward, extraction is gentler, and therefore we have removed the layers obscuring the essence of the wine.” The result is wine that is different from those which many Francophiles associate with Napa Valley. There can be a profound elegance and refinement, especially in recent vintages.
Lewis’s Best 3 Wines from Harlan Estate
Harlan Estate, 2019: this is the wine that really showcases the evolution of the vines and the “dialling back of the inputs” that Will Harlan had explained. Dark ink in colour, the nose is still quite primary, but exhibits black fruits, licorice and a eucalyptus note. The tannins are remarkably soft, and there are no obvious oaky notes. The wine is very fine, and defined by fresh acidity which gives it an attractive lift in the mid-palate, and a savoury long finish.
Harlan Estate, 1995: a wow wine that is still remarkably fresh and vibrant, and is as good as most First Growths from that period of time. Bright dark berry fruits, hints of eucalyptus and forest floor, a firm but full mid-palate and a long satisfying finish.
Harlan Estate, 1993: an early expression of Harlan Estate, the wine was made from seven-year-old vines. A ringer for a high-quality expression of aged Left-Bank Bordeaux, the nose was complex with floral petal notes, tobacco, chocolate, sweet spices, dark fruits, and licorice. In the mouth, the wine was still full of fruit with a good amount of fresh acidity and a cool menthol, eucalyptus taste on the long finish.
The 2024 edition of the Golden Vines awards will take place in Madrid between October 25-27 2024. liquidicons.com
