When it comes to wine, if the State of Washington is known for anything, it’s too much of a good thing. Unlike other regions that have a reputation for one knockout style of wine (Napa Cab, anyone?) Washington offers a wide range of varieties to satisfy any wine lover’s cravings, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Riesling. With so many options it can be difficult to focus on what the state does best.
The second largest wine producing state in the USA, Washington can trace its earliest winemaking roots to the 1860s and ‘70s, when Italian and German immigrants planted vines here. Grape growing dwindled during Prohibition, and the modern wine Washington industry started up again in the 1950s and expanded rapidly through the following decades. Although the primary image of the Evergreen State is the rain and fog of Seattle and Puget Sound, the vast majority of wine made here is from the arid region east of the Cascade Mountains.
The state’s largest region, Columbia Valley AVA, crosses the border into northern Oregon and contains almost all its other AVAs, including Walla Walla Valley, Ancient Lakes, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope, Naches Heights, and Yakima Valley. Hot sunny summer days, cool nights, and the Columbia, Snake, Walla Walla, and Yakima rivers provide an ideal environment for ripening grapes to perfection. While the state is acknowledged for its broad selection of vinous treasures, we think the best place to start, especially as weather warms up and we’re lighting the grill, is with the magnificent Cabernet Sauvignon and red blends coming out of this Pacific Northwest wine powerhouse.
Valdemar Estates 2019 Red Mountain Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Washington
The family behind Valdemar Estates has more than 130 years of history in northern Spain when Joaquin Martinez Bujanda began making wine in Oyón. Today Jesús Martinez Bujanda and his sister Ana Martinez Bujanda are the fifth generation responsible for continuing the passion for fine winemaking, sustainability, and accessibility in Spain, and more recently, in Walla Walla Washington. Valdemar Estates 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is inky purple colored with aromas of purple flowers, black raspberry, and cocoa powder. It is voluptuous with round tannins and ripe fruit flavors of cassis and pomegranate with notes of dried Mediterranean herbs and freshly ground black pepper. Drink now or lay down for a few years. Only 104 cases were produced in 2019.
Doubleback 2019 Cabernet Sauvingon Walla Walla Valley Washington
NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe retired in 2007 and “doubled back” to his hometown of Walla Walla to open a winery with his wife Maura. Doubleback was founded in 2008 as an estate focused winery that quickly drew the attention of wine critics and collectors. Josh McDaniels was hired as the inaugural winemaker and today he functions as the CEO and director of winemaking. To produce this delicious wine Drew and Josh used grapes from their four vineyards located in Walla Walla Valley. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec that has aromas of freshly picked red cherry, graphite, and cigar box. It has flavors of red plum, cherry vanilla, and tobacco leaf with silky tannins and a finish that stays with you for the long haul. Drink now or through 2039.
Trothe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills Washington
In 1920 George Smith became a local hero by converting 100,000 acres of sagebrush to farmable land, but in 1942 the land was seized by the United States Navy and used as a practice bombing range. When the land was finally returned in 1945, George planted wheat and today that same land, farmed by his great-great grandchildren and extended family, is well known for its high-quality grapes. Trothe wines are made only from grapes grown in this vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The family’s 2019 Cab is aged for 23 months in French oak followed by 13 months in the bottle before being released to the market. It has enticing aromas of cassis, black plum, and cedar with polished tannins and flavors of black raspberry, ripe black cherry, and tobacco leaf. Drink now through 2039.
Figgins 2016 Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley Washington
The winemakers at Figgins were very happy with the weather during the 2016 growing season and only complained about rain at the midpoint of their grape harvest. Interestingly they felt that the rain softened the Cabernet tannins a bit and made the 2016 more approachable without requiring a decade or more to mellow the grip. We couldn’t agree more—this delicious wine is drinking perfectly right now and has aromas of tarte Tatin, cigar box, and ripe black fruits with flavors of sweet brown baking spices, blueberry, and cassis accented by a lightly toasted oak frame and silky-smooth tannins.
Longshadows 2018 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Washington
Napa Valley winemaker Randy Dunn only makes one wine outside of California: Longshadow’s Feather from the Columbia Valley. For the 2018 edition he chose grapes from three different regions including Wahluke Slope, White Bluffs, and Horse Heaven Hills to create a wine with great complexity. This delightful wine is dark ink colored in the glass with aromas of black plum, black currant, and cedar box that open to flavors of ripe black fruits accented by vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and toasted spice. It is soft on entry with velvety tannins and great persistence in the post palate.
Col Solare 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Washington
The name Col Solare, Italian for “shining hill,” represents a partnership between Marchesi Antinori from Tuscany and Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. The goal from the start was to create a limited production, luxury wine utilizing techniques from both Italy and Washington State. The 2019 harvest to make Col Solare was significantly lower than prior years but yielded high quality, concentrated grapes. The resulting wine has intoxicating aromas of cassis, dried Mediterranean herbs, espresso, and forest floor and flavors of ripe dark fruits, dark chocolate, and black plum with velvety tannins and a long, long finish.
Avennia 2020 Sestina Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Washington
Named for an ancient form of poetry from Medieval France, Sestina is purposefully designed to age for years in the cellar, so the winemaking team focuses specifically on complexity and structure to achieve this goal. Only 388 cases of this wine were made in 2020. It has aromas of anise, ripe black fruits, and dried sage and marjoram. The tannins are slightly grippy and pleasantly astringent with flavors of cassis, blackberry, licorice, and cedar shavings. Buy now but lay this wine down for a few years to let the tannins mellow a bit.
Quilceda Creek 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Washington
In the early 20th century Alex Golitzin’s parents left Russia to escape the impending Russian Revolution. The family ended up in France, where Alex was born, and eventually emigrated to San Francisco after World War II with the help of famed Napa winemaker André Tchelistcheff and Alex’s uncle. Years later, Alex met his wife Jeanette and after a successful attempt at making wine in their home garage, they founded Quilceda Creek in 1978. Their delicious 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is ruby colored with aromas of cassis, black plum, and graphite. The tannins are pleasantly grippy with flavors of dark ripe fruits, tobacco leaf, and mocha before the persistent finish.
Leonetti Cellar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley Washington
Grapes to make this exceptional wine were sourced from four Walla Walla Valley vineyards including Seven Hills, Loess, Holy Roller, and Mill Creek Upland. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and one percent Petit Verdot. The wine aged for 22 months in a combination of new, one year old, and neutral barrels. It is dark and brooding in color with aromas of ripe summer cherry, cigar box, violet, and lavender and enticing flavors of black plum, cassis, mocha, and a touch of butterscotch. The tannins are rounded and generous and there’s a surprising yet pleasant splash of acidity in the finish.
