Looking for an amazing New Year’s celebration wine? Or a memorable gift? Our wine expert presents his favourite festive choices from the elite estates.
What is the ultimate fine wine for the festive period? I have chosen a selection from some of the world’s premium estates—wineries that produce at the very highest level. Most of them have been considered iconic for generations—while a few enjoy more modest histories—but nevertheless, all have mastered the art of making extraordinary fine wines.
A great place to start your Christmas search is with French winery The House of Krug, who create what are considered to be the finest examples of Champagne. Their releases are all eminently collectable, and for many, Krug Clos du Mesnil is regarded as the optimum expression of prestige fizz.
Heading south, Burgundy is regarded as the world’s greatest terroir for producing fine chardonnay. In the north of the region lies the medieval town of Chablis. Here, Domaine Raveneau consistently produces wines of extraordinary quality and depth that age beautifully for decades. Meanwhile, in Monfortino, north-west Italy, the wines from Giacomo Conterno are simply stellar. Roberto Conterno, the current winemaker, is known for being a fastidious perfectionist and creating Italy’s most collectable wine.
Close to the Pacific Ocean sits America’s greatest wine region, Napa Valley. Harlan Estate—along with its sister wines of BOND, Promontory and The Mascot—has an aristocratic aura that explains why it is often the American wine of choice for discerning European fine wine lovers. In a similar vein, Egon Müller is undoubtedly Germany’s top winemaker, hailing from a multi-generational line of predecessors all called Egon. All of his wines are world-class, but the Trockenbeerenauslese is mythical, made in minute quantities, in the rare vintages where noble rot is able to produce the level of sweetness required for this category of wine.
If you’re looking for a truly superlative tipple, look no further than Petrus, the Right-Bank Bordeaux wine from the Pomerol plateau. For a wine that is made from 100 percent merlot—often considered a workhorse grape outside of this region —it is not only first-class but, depending on the vintage, can age for close to a century (if well stored). Of equal, if not higher rank, are the wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, from the iconic Burgundy village of Vosne- Romanée. Although its highest priced wine, La Romanée-Conti, is legendary, many collectors view La Tâche as being the most consistent quality expression from the estate.
No Christmas Day feast is complete without a bottle of Dom Pérignon. Since 1921, its Champagnes have become the ultimate symbol of luxury. The maison’s top release, Dom Pérignon P3, has been ageing on the lees for between 30 and 40 years. P3 is a wine with incredible vinous qualities. Every wine lover should try it at least once in their life. And to finish off the meal, Château d’Yquem is an astute choice, the supreme execution of dessert wine. The estate was regarded as standing above all others at the time of the famed 1855 Bordeaux Classification, and continues to produce on a different plane.
Can’t pick between these Christmas delights? To help you decide, I present my detailed tasting notes. Or, even better, you could just purchase them all.
PETRUS 2000
Sampling wine at an estate is always likely to skew your impression. You desperately want to love the wine in your glass. With this proviso in mind, the Petrus 2000 I enjoyed at the estate was superlative. Elegant, fresh, but with rich dark berry fruit, fine structured tannins and a gorgeous finish that had me wanting for more. Retail price: €6,000
GIACOMO CONTERNO
Monfortino Riserva 2010 An iron fi st in a velvet glove is the most apt description of a wine full of power and grace that will no doubt be showing well for the next fiftyplus years. Monfortino is known for aromas of leather, liquorice, incense and dried rose petals, and this wine has it in abundance. However, the coup de grâce is the extremely long finish that encourages you to drink the rest of the bottle before your partner reaches for it. Retail price: €2,400
DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI La Tâche 2010
A wine that still has a long trajectory ahead of it. I was wowed by the aromas of rose petals, potpourri and sweet cherry. A wine of power and grace, structured fine tannins and an intense energy running through the mid-palate. And then there’s the finish, which seems to run forever. Retail price: €7,000
CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM 1989
My go-to d’Yquem to serve at important occasions. I love the power, complexity and silky texture of this wine. The marzipan, marmalade and saffron notes are incredible alongside hints of tobacco aromas from the wood ageing. It also has continued to improve as time has passed—always an indicator of greatness. Retail price: €425
DOMAINE RAVENEAU
Les Clos 2014 I committed infanticide opening the wondrous 2014 vintage. It shouldn’t be drunk for at least another ten years. But what a wine! Reductive and spicy aromas, with a racy mid-palate of orchard fruits and honeysuckle, and a long, subtle finish. Built for the ages. Retail price: €2,600
HARLAN ESTATE 2019
This is the wine that really showcases the evolution of the vines and the “dialling back of the inputs” that managing director Will Harlan has expounded. Dark ink in colour, the nose is still quite primary, but exhibits black fruits, liquorice and a eucalyptus note. The tannins are remarkably soft, and there are no obvious oaky notes. The wine is very fine, and defined by fresh acidity which gives it an attractive lift in the mid-palate, and a savoury long finish. Retail price: €1,900
KRUG Clos du Mesnil 2002
A blanc de blancs chardonnay wine from a 1.8 hectare single-plot of vines. Although still a relative puppy, I am convinced that the 2002 vintage will last for another 20-plus years and be considered alongside the 1979 vintage as a legendary wine. Retail price: ¤2,200
WEINGUT EGON MÜLLER Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2018
Tasted just after bottling, I was blown away by this heartstopper. The acidity overwhelms the sweetness in such a way that it’s very moreish and easy to drink despite the “thickness” of the liquid. Golden, treacly textured and audaciously complex for such a young wine with just 5.5% ABV, sampling it was one of life’s great experiences. Retail price: €18,000
DOM PÉRIGNON P3 1975
A wine of such depth and complexity, with one of the longest finishes I have ever experienced; it’s firstly a fine wine and only secondly a sparkling wine. Floral, petal aromas compete with the typical toasty notes you would expect of a long-aged Champagne. Retail price: €20,000
