Our Fine Spirits Editor discovers a new spirit from Scotland’s legendary whisky custodians Gordon & MacPhail.
Candlelight flickered across the glassy heights of Marylebone Square’s newly unveiled penthouse, London’s vibrant heart sprawling below. Here, an intimate assembly of wine and spirits connoisseurs, industry leaders, and guests gathered for a singular celebration: Gordon & MacPhail—Scotland’s legendary custodians of whisky heritage—unveiling a spirit shaped by more than a century of patient vision.
Inside The Event
“Tonight is about the pursuit of perfection—a phrase made tangible in the architecture, hospitality, and, above all, these extraordinary whiskies Gordon & MacPhail have brought to Marylebone,” remarked Gavin de Klerk, Development Director of Concord London, as Opus 11’s cuisine, led by CEO Joshua Karlsen, set the stage for an evening where history would be poured by the glass.
At the heart of the gathering stood Stephen Rankin, fourth-generation Urquhart and family torchbearer. Raising a glass, he set the tone: “Whisky is a wonderful catalyst—it unites us at special moments. For us, it has always been about the pursuit of perfection. Perhaps you’ll find a little of that in these glasses tonight.”
Liquid Legacy
The tasting commenced with rare cask samples, each chosen to honour an anniversary, birth year, or treasured milestone. Strathisla 1976, celebrating the founding year of Robb Report, dazzled with ripe apricot and polished oak. Longmorn 1968—drawn from a first-fill sherry cask—saluted both this author’s birth year and the launch of Connoisseur’s Choice, a pioneering range that preserved single malts from obscurity. Mortlach 1988, the “Beast of Dufftown,” offered three decades of waxy power, echoing Robb Report UK CEO Adam Fox’s earliest F1 memories at Silverstone and recalling the 2010 launch of the legendary 70-year-old Mortlach.
Rankin’s passion for whisky selection came alive: “Pairing spirit with cask is a bit like a dating app—you want characters who can spend a long, happy life together. Selecting the right cask is an art—a balance of spirit, wood, and patience. Time is the rarest gift we possess—and sharing it over whisky is truly special.”
Philosophy in Practice
Between pours, Rankin reflected on Gordon & MacPhail’s role as imaginative Scotch pioneers. “In the nineteenth century, John Walker, Chivas Brothers, Dewar’s, Bell’s, Ballantine’s—all began as grocers. Our shop in Elgin, the ‘Harrods of the North’, set new standards for excellence.” Across wars, depressions and Prohibition, the Urquhart family laid down casks, building what became a “liquid library” unrivalled in Scotch.
What truly sets Gordon & MacPhail apart is their discipline in selecting casks and filling them with new make spirit from partner distilleries—guaranteeing provenance, consistency, and unmatched quality. This practice, unchanged for over a century, shifted in 2023 as the family focused exclusively on family-owned Benromach and The Cairn Distilleries, bringing every stage of production under their personal stewardship and writing a bold new chapter in Scotch heritage.
A Miracle in Oak
The evening’s crescendo arrived with Glenlivet 1940—an 85-year-old single malt, distilled as the world stood on the brink of war, and now the oldest of its kind ever bottled. “We didn’t know what flag would fly over Scotland by year’s end. By rights, this whisky shouldn’t exist—but here it is,” Rankin shared. That February, sherry casks arrived from Jerez to Elgin, filled and safely stored as conflict raged. Through wartime rationing and decades of evaporation, survival was nothing short of miraculous.
The whisky’s decanter, “Artistry in Oak,” is itself an objet d’art—a mouth-blown crystal designed by architect Jeanne Gang, supported by four bronze branches to honour generations of Urquhart stewardship. Just 125 decanters exist; the first reserved for charity, supporting reforestation in the UK and US. Each comes with an acorn carved from the original cask’s oak—a living link to four centuries past.
Tasting the Past
When Glenlivet 1940 was finally poured, reverence filled the room. The nose revealed apricot compote, soft leather, cinnamon, orchard fruit, and autumnal plum. The palate defied its age: vibrant and persistent, at 43.7% ABV. “It doesn’t crumble; it’s elegant and enduring. Everything about this defies logic,” marvelled Rankin. Of the 125 “Artistry in Oak” decanters, only fifteen remain, each priced at £125,000 and accompanied by exclusive tastings and a personal invitation to experience Gordon & MacPhail’s Speyside heartland.
Lasting Impact
As the last golden drops lingered and conversation subsided, Rankin reflected: “For 130 years, Gordon & MacPhail has quietly shaped Scotch—a family at the heart of single malt. Our aim isn’t merely to create history, but to pay it forward—auction proceeds support forestry and rewilding, ensuring these oaks stand tall for generations to come.”
In whisky, as in life, legacy is carved from endurance and skill. “Artistry in Oak” is not just a bottle, but a testament to the time, patience and imagination that define both a family and the finest Scotch.
Lewis Chester DipWSET is a London-based wine and rare spirit collector and writer, a member of the Académie du Champagne and Chevaliers du Tastevin, co-founder of Liquid Icons, and, with Sasha Lushnikov, founder of The Golden Vines® Awards. He is also Honorary President and Head of Fundraising at the Gérard Basset Foundation, supporting global diversity & inclusivity in wine, spirits and hospitality. The Golden Vines® 2025 will take place in Miami, USA, 7–9 November 2025. Register your interest at Liquid Icons.
