A 20th-century archival design is poised to become a modern Bulgari icon.
From Monete to Serpenti to B.zero1, there is no shortage of instantly recognisable hits at Bulgari, but the new Vimini line—part of the Eternal jewellery collection—will likely find solid footing among the house’s established icons. To create the geometry of the solid-gold pieces, the Italian jeweller looked to an archival bracelet from 1942 that was inspired by ancient Roman and Greek wicker baskets. The result is dramatic architecture that looks so modern it’s hard to believe its origins date back more than eight decades.
The rebirth of Vimini is a faithful tribute to its precursor. In fact, the bracelet is nearly an exact replica, underpinned by more elevated, modern craftsmanship. The ring and necklace follow the same structure, with rhombus-shaped gold elements stacked to create a woven effect. A pair of statement earrings repeats the style in articulated, dangling forms, while a second set is fashioned as ear climbers for a more casual expression.
In one-of-a-kind high-jewellery chokers and necklaces, the design is rendered in black diamond-like carbon, or DLC—a high-tech material known for its exceptional hardness and scratch-resistance that is often used in watchmaking—and combined with diamonds and yellow gold for an avant-garde look.
The construction and savoir faire are prime examples of Bulgari’s capabilities, made possible by its sprawling manufacturing facility in Valenza, Italy, which the company expanded, by more than doubling its size, last April. Bulgari has said it is committed to hiring 500 new craftspeople and creating 1,600 jobs by 2029, in addition to training young, aspiring jewelers at a dedicated school within the facility. Vimini is likely just a hint of what’s to come, as Bulgari weaves designs from its past with the fresh talent and the state-of-the-art resources shaping its future.
Top: A Bulgari Vimini choker necklace.
