Our wine expert reveals the fourth on his list of the World’s Best 12 Fine Wine Estates with Chablis’ star producer.
I try to visit the mediaeval town of Chablis annually towards the end of May. The weather is pleasant, tourists have yet to besiege the restaurants and hotels, and winemakers have more time on their hands to meet. One producer I had been desperate to visit was Domaine Francois Raveneau. As a fine wine collector of almost 25 years, I had built up a large collection of their wines: more than 1,000 bottles. However, despite my best efforts, they had no interest in meeting with me.
After a few false starts, I eventually wrangled my way into the estate through a Parisian wine merchant. Although I fleetingly saw Jean-Marie Raveneau, the owner-winemaker, I was brusquely whisked away into the cellar by Isabelle and Maxime Raveneau from the next generation. I should have known better than to show off about my large collection of Raveneau wines. “Why do you need so many bottles? Who sold you the bottles?”, Maxime asked in an accusatory manner. The rest of the visit was conducted in a cold and brisk manner, and I could sense they couldn’t wait to see the back of me.
In spite of this, Raveneau’s wines are undoubtedly my favourite dry white wines on the planet, with Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury running closely behind. The wines are universally great, irrespective of whether you’re tasting the Grand Crus, Premier Crus or plain village wines. They age forever, and in all the years I have been drinking these wines, I have only ever had one oxidised bottle.
The wines from Raveneau are cheap, provided you’re able to buy them directly from the estate. For everyone else, the wine merchants and restaurants make a fortune selling them in the secondary market, as collectors are willing to pay Puligny-Montrachet Grands Crus prices to secure their top wines.
Jean-Marie Raveneau owns 10 hectares of vines, including the Grands Crus of Blanchot, Valmur and the famed Les Clos, as well as four Premiers Crus of Montée de Tonnerres, Les Vaillons, Butteaux, Monts Mains and Chapelot. Jean-Marie is known for harvesting the grapes early to preserve acidity. Made in miniscule quantities, the grapes are fermented in vats and aged one year in barrels.
They are renowned for a style that expresses purity, silky smooth texture, fresh acidity, stoney minerality and honeyed fruit. Once you have tried Raveneau, it’s normally fairly easy to pick them out in a blind tasting compared with their peers. The DNA of the winemaking style shines through.
One of my wine epiphanies came in late May 2015. I went to dine at my favourite restaurant in Chablis (and perhaps all of France), Au Fils du Zinc. Not only is the food excellent, but the wine list of older Raveneau wines is off the charts and priced at silly-low prices. Unfortunately, each table is only allowed to buy one bottle of Raveneau.
Having dined there many times, I asked Fabien Espana, the owner, to recommend a bottle. He suggested the 1986 Raveneau Butteaux. The wine was sensational and undoubtedly the best dry white wine I had ever drunk. Awestruck, Fabian explained that Jean-Marie had thought that the 1986 vintage was a disaster and decided not to sell the wines. Many years later, he stumbled across the bottles in the back of the cellar and thought he would try one to see if it was still undrinkable. Low and behold, it had become a thing of beauty.
Rushing back to London, I bought every 1986 vintage Raveneau I could find from around the world. Every single bottle I opened was a triumph. The lesson of this story is that what might start out as a foul-tasting wine might turn into a masterpiece given enough time!
The Best 3 Wines from Domaine Francois Raveneau
Domaine Raveneau, Les Clos, 2014: I committed infanticide opening the wonderous 2014 vintage. It shouldn’t be drunk for at least another 10 years. But what a wine! Reductive and spicy aromas, with a racy mid-palate of orchard fruits and honeysuckle, and a long, subtle finish. Built for the ages. Do not try again till 2035.
Domaine Raveneau, Les Clos, 1986: One of my purchases post-the 1986 vintage revelation at Au Fils du Zinc, this wine was simply sensational, helped by the fact that the bottle appeared in pristine condition. Deep yellow in appearance, intense aromas of stone fruit, honey and almond paste were almost overwhelming. The mid-palate was extremely generous and the finish was very long and memorable.
Domaine Raveneau, Butteaux, 1986: my Raveneau epiphany moment. One of the greatest bottles I have ever tasted. Hugely complex nose, divine mid-palate of honey, white truffle and lavender, with the most gorgeous finish that went on for an age. I want more!
The next edition of the Golden Vines Awards will take place in Miami between 7 and 9 November 2025. liquidicons.com
