The jewel of Viareggio, Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte combines prestigious heritage with world-class dining and fine Tuscan hospitality to offer an unforgettable experience on the Italian coast. Discover Stefano-Ricci-designed suites, a rooftop pool and the only two-star Michelin restaurant on the Tuscan seafront – plus a few surprises, including a treasure chest of contemporary artworks and the “best breakfast in Italy”.
Grand heritage
Set in a beautiful 19th-century building, Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte Viareggio stands out as a distinctive landmark on the Viareggio shoreline. The imposing façade of the corner property attracts the eye with its Italian Liberty styling and neoclassical features – a tease of the grand sophistication that awaits in the interior. First opened in 1922 as the Select Palace Hotel, the historic building was brought back to life by architects Diletta Storace and Nicola Spagni who aimed to “restore this magnificent example of Liberty architecture to its original vocation as a seat of luxury and Italian elegance”.
Design and ambience
Designed by Florentine architects S+S Studio, the hotel’s interiors beautifully balance the classic with the contemporary, and first impressions leave you feeling like you’ve arrived somewhere special. Guests enter via a wooden revolving door into a grand entrance with a towering ceiling, and are checked in by a well-heeled concierge at a golden reception desk framed by back-lit stone. A closer look at the communal areas reveals an arsenal of artistic and architectural delights, including delicate stucco work, stain-glass panelling, contemporary 3D artworks, luxurious custom fabrics and wallpapers, and Art Deco-style chandeliers. Look up to spot a giant green beetle as you exit the bar.
A wrought iron staircase winds up through the centre of the hotel, elevated by a luxurious deep blue and gold carpet and a multi-level hanging sculpture. On every floor, and in every room and suite, guests can discover yet more intriguing artworks. Subtle touches to the hotel’s present owner, Next Yacht Group, can be found throughout, from the superyacht models in the lounge to the videos playing in the lifts.
Facilities and amenities
Guests are so well catered for that there’s little need to exit the hotel, unless it’s to visit the beach. A highlight for many visitors is the rooftop pool with sea views, a restaurant and a bar. The bar was booked out for a private event when we visited but I’m told that the sunsets here are spectacular. The spa is another highlight and offers pretty stone-lit relaxation areas and an excellent menu of treatments, including some alternative therapies such as a heated water bed massage – pick your lighting to suite your mood and let the hot water soothe your skin and soul as you enjoy your treatment.
The hotel doesn’t have its own private beach but it offers access to the Teresita Wellness Club, where guests can enjoy another pool, loungers and gazebos overlooking the sea or pool, a spa and fitness centre, and beach access.
Finest stays
The hotel offers 80 elegant guest rooms including 32 suites, all of which maintain the same standard of contemporary design with classic touches. The pinnacle is the Presidential Suite, designed by Florentine designer Stefano Ricci in the theme of ‘Made in Tuscany’. It features two bedrooms, a living room, dining room, study, balconies overlooking the Viareggio promenade, three marble-clad bathrooms and a wellness area with sauna, sensation showers and hot tub.
In the kitchen
The dining alone at Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte Viareggio is worth travelling for. It is home to the excellent Il Piccolo Principe, the only two-star Michelin restaurant on the coast of Tuscany. The refined restaurant attracts gourmands from far and wide – and for good reason. At the restaurant’s helm is executive chef Giuseppe Mancino, who cut his teeth working in kitchens with Gualtiero Marchesi and Alain Ducasse. Diners can choose between three menus – the ‘green’ menu, the classics and the experience – or create an a la carte selection.
We enjoyed the classic menu, which was tailored to factor in intolerances, and enjoyed eight courses of beautifully presented dishes plus an array of creative tapas and desserts. Highlights included pizzaiola red mullet, barbecued sweetbread, oxtail stuffed tortello and the restaurant’s signature butter and anchovie spaghetti.
Chef Giuseppe Mancino is passionate about sustainability and sources as many ingredients as possible locally, including from the nearby market garden Biodinamica Mediterranea, and this freshness is felt in every course. Wine pairing is also excellent the sommelier is highly knowledgeable and keen to introduce rare and lesser-known Italian wines.
Another culinary highlight is the breakfast, which has won awards for the “best breakfast in Italy”. Served in the magnificent Tapestry Room against a backdrop of original Pre-Raphaelite tapestry, the breakfast buffet goes above the ordinary. An Instagrammable affair with playful touches throughout, the buffet overflows with sweet and savoury temptations including continental favourites – imagine 20 different handmade breads and honey straight from the honeycomb – as well as specialities of the day – on my visit, it was fresh oysters and horse meat tartar. There’s also an enticing menu of eggs done multiple ways and a fresh smoothie station.
Bar talk
Bar manager Simone Corsini is award-winning – and so are some of his cocktails. The menu changes every year with a fresh theme to entice guests, although classic cocktails are also available. For 2024, to celebrate the hotel’s 102-year anniversary, the nine-strong menu has been designed to reflect the city of Viareggio’s connection to the carnival, which takes place in the city every February and March. Each cocktail has been given a special character and mask, and tells the story of a fictional neurodivergent person, raising awareness and proceeds for causes including Down syndrome.
Insider tips
Block two hours in your diary for a long, leisurely breakfast in the Tapestry Room. Book a table at Il Piccolo Principe at sunset and enjoy beautiful views with your fine dining. Make time to experience the rooftop pool and if you wish to relax at the beach, request a day pass for the Teresita Wellness Club in plenty of time.
